Fish Diseases

There are a few common diseases to look out for in your fish. Although most of them are treatable, it is important to be aware of them before the disease gets too progressive.Firstly and most importantly, ensure your tank water is healthy at all times. Fish are sensitive to their environment and even subtle changes, such as temperature or pH balance can affect their health.

Signs to look out for:

  • Fins; floppy, frayed, torn or discoloured
  • Gills and skin; fluffy white substance, lesions, mucous
  • Any abnormality in breathing or swimming (especially floating or lethargy)
  • Gasping at the top of the water for air

Here are some points to take into consideration for maintaining safe and healthy conditions for your fish:

  • Make sure the water is changed regularly
  • Ensure healthy pH level
  • Keep plants healthy and clean
  • Check water filter and materials are clean

Velvet / Gold-dust disease (Oodinium) – Parasitic

This parasite, (Amyloodinium ocellatum) is a one-celled parasite. It is called dinoflagellate, because of the flagella or lash-like structures. They are adaptable to their environs, no matter the temperature or salinity. These parasites attach themselves to the skin of the fish. The first sign of Velvet Disease is inflammation of the gills, which reduces the flow of oxygen over the gills. Progressively and to the extreme, the fish will show further symptoms, i.e. fast / rapid gill movement, due to the lack of oxygen, then signs of lethargy will set in. Also, “Gold”, “Velvet” looking spots will appear on and around the gills (hence Gold-dust / Velvet Disease) and the tissue surrounding the gills will become more inflamed, bleed and show signs of decaying. The best way to view if these spots have appeared is to try shining a small light on the fish, preferably in a darkened room. Unfortunately by this time it will be too late to save them.

Treatment and Prevention

  • Make sure that there is NO over-crowding in your tank
  • Quarantine any new or sick fish in a separate tank for at least a fortnight
  • Check the water conditions in the tanks’ environs and the pH level
  • Refresh about 30 – 40% of the water in the tank
  • Ensure the water temperature in tropical tanks is slowly changed to 29° over a 24 hour period
  • Switch the tank lights off over the recovery period
  • Treat with aquarium salt
  • Treat the disease with Acriflavine (or speak to our in-store assistants as to what is available for treatment)
  • Ensure there is no carbon filtration during treatment
  • Make that your fish are eating high quality species appropriate food that is nutritious

This is a very infectious disease that is difficult to treat, so in this case prevention is better than cure.

Cotton Wool Disease (Columinaris) – Fungal

Fungi are common in aquatic environments and more so in isolated environments, such as tanks. As mentioned before, water and environmental hygiene and maintenance are essential in your fish tank. This fungus is found on the external tissues of the fish. Namely, the fins skin and mouth. It is also found on the fish eggs. The most common fungus found, being Saprolegnia and Achyla, in the eggs and Branchiomyces in the fish. The infection will be exacerbated by the presence of older or sick fish. The fungus is presented as a “fluffy, white growth”.

Egg Fungus

The “fluffy, white fungus” (i.e. Saprolegnia and Achyla), will be found on eggs that are predominately, infertile, damaged or diseased. These eggs should, immediately, be removed from the tank, to avoid further infection. They can be removed with either a hose (pipette) or with forceps. Unfortunately, there is no treatment for the fungal infection in the eggs.

Gill-rot

With regards to the fish, the “fluffy, white fungus” (Branchiomyces), is, in itself not at all common. High ammonia and nitrate levels in the tank are a cause of this disease, as well as highly stressed fish. It will present itself as a mottled appearance around the gills and the gills will have a mucus secretion, which will leave the fish gasping for air. Progressively, the infection will appear as red / grey in colour. Unfortunately, this fungus is not successfully treatable and can and will lead to entire gill-rot.

Treatment and Prevention

  • Make sure that there is NO over-crowding in your tank
  • Quarantine any new or sick fish in a separate tank for at least a fortnight
  • Check the water conditions in the tanks’ environs and the pH level
  • Refresh about 30 – 50% of the water in the tank
  • Ensure the water temperature is changed to 29° over a 24 hour period
  • Switch the tank lights off over the recovery period
  • Treat with aquarium salt
  • Treat the disease with Melafix or Furan 2 or an antibiotic prescribed by your vet
  • Ensure there is no carbon filtration during treatment
  • Make that your fish are eating high quality species appropriate food that is nutritious

It is important that tanks are not over-populated, so as to decrease stress levels in the fish. Remember, maintaining a healthy environment for your fish is imperative.

Fin-rot (Bacteriosis Pinnarum) – Bacterial

Fin-rot is caused by bacteria (Aeromonas, Pseudomonas and Flexibacter). It is first noticed by the red / reddish stripe found on and around the fins. Your fish will have signs of loss of appetite and you will also notice that the fins become lighter in shade, almost white. The progress of the disease will lead to the fin becoming frayed on the edges and there will be eventual rotting of the fin membrane and unfortunately death.

This can be initiated by bullying or tail nipping by other fish, but it usually stems from poor water quality.

Treatment and Prevention

  • Make sure that there is NO over-crowding in the tank
  • Make sure that your fish are species compatible
  • Quarantine any new or sick fish in a separate tank for at least a fortnight
  • Syphon the gravel at the bottom of the tank
  • Check the water conditions in the tanks’ environs and the pH level
  • Refresh about 25% of the water in the tank
  • Check the water temperature
  • Switch the tank lights off over the recovery period
  • Treat with aquarium salt
  • Treat the disease with Melafix or Furan 2 or an antibiotic prescribed by your vet
  • Ensure that your fish are eating high quality species appropriate food that is nutritious
  • Check the expiry dates on the fish food
  • Ensure there is no carbon filtration during treatment

Pop Eye (Trauma)

Pop eye is caused by trauma to the eye. It is a fluid build-up behind or in the fish’s eye. This is more than likely due to the bullying of an aggressive fish in the tank or the fish has hurt its’ eye on something sharp in the tank. Given this, it is MOST important to speak to our in-store assistants regarding species compatibility and to ALWAYS make sure that there are NO sharp or harmful ornaments or objects in the fish’s environment.

This condition may also be a result of an underlying bacterial infection or as a consequence of poor water conditions.

Treatment and Prevention

  • Make sure that there is NO over-crowding in the tank
  • Make sure that your fish are species compatible
  • Quarantine the sick fish in a separate tank for at least a fortnight
  • Check the water conditions in the tanks’ environs and the pH level
  • Refresh about 30 – 50% of the water in the tank
  • Check the water temperature
  • Treat with Furan 2
  • Feed a good quality food

Swim bladder Disorder / Floating Disorder (Fungal or bacterial)

Swim Bladder Disorder is a fungal or bacterial disease generally causing liver or kidney problems and is noticeable by a bulbous / globular shape of the body. This could be due to over-feeding. You will notice that your fish will be closer to the top of the tank, due to the buoyancy caused by the swelling and will have difficulty in swimming and going to the bottom of the tank. There will also be signs of listlessness, gasping for air and loss of appetite.

Treatment

  • DO NOT feed your fish for 2 days
  • Reduce the filter current in the tank, so the fish will not have any difficulty swimming
  • Reduce the water level by at least half, to reduce water pressure if fish are sitting on the bottom
  • Treat with aquarium salt
  • Feed the fish both frozen and dried food; it would be best to saturate the dry food for about 30 seconds before feeding the fish, to aid in digestion. Also, thaw the frozen food. Adding a couple of thawed and shelled peas will help act as a laxative
  • Treat this disorder with Furan 2
  • Check the water conditions in the tanks’ environs and the pH level
  • Refresh about 25% of the water

It is important that tanks are not over-populated, so as to decrease stress levels in the fish. Remember, maintaining a healthy environment for your fish is imperative.

Dropsy – (Disambiguation) – (Bacterial)

Dropsy is a bacterial infection which is most noticeable in the swelling of the stomach or abdomen. The fish’s scales will look like they are sticking out, a “pine-cone” effect. You will notice that the fish is listless and will have a loss of appetite. Also, the faeces will appear pale and string-like. Unfortunately this disease is fatal for your fish and it is imperative that you IMMEDIATELY remove them from the tank and euthanize them.

Ammonia poisoning

Ammonia is not a disorder and has everything to do with water hygiene. Firstly, the tank water will be cloudy or murky. The symptoms will present in inflammation and redness of the gills. You will notice that your fish have trouble gasping for air. They may also scratch themselves on surfaces but no white spots will be present on their bodies. Large amounts of ammonia will exacerbate any other disorders your fish are experiencing and will cause stress.

Treatment and Prevention

  • Check your water conditions, pH balance and ammonia levels
  • Refresh 40 – 50% of the water in the tank
  • Check your biological filter
  • Syphon and clean the gravel at the bottom of the tank
  • Ensure good filtration
  • DO NOT over-feed the fish
  • Make sure your tank is not over-crowded
  • Ensure that the fish food is of high quality and not past its expiry date

White Spot Disease / Ich (Parasitic)

White Spot or Ich is caused by a parasite. It is presented in white, salt-sprinkled-like spots on the fish. If this disease is not treated early enough, it can and will lead to many mortalities in your tank. Your fish will also be seen rubbing / brushing itself against ornaments etc. in the tank, for relief as this disease causes an irritation on the skin. Your fish will also show signs of fast gill movement and lethargy, i.e. remaining or lying at the bottom of the tank. Due to the severity of this disease, please treat as soon as these signs are noticed.

Treatment

  • In tropical tanks only, slowly, over a 24hr period, increase the water temperature to 29° – this speeds up the life cycle of the parasite
  • Keep the water at this temperature until the disease has been eradicated from the tank
  • Refresh at least 30 – 50% of the water
  • Remove the carbon in the tanks’ filter as this will absorb any medication you put in the tank
  • Ask one of our in-store assistants for the correct treatment of the disease and ENSURE you FINISH the course of the treatment, even if your fish seem to look healthier

Fungal Infections

Although fungal spores are a natural occurrence in water tanks, their numbers will increase exponentially if there are sick or stressed fish in your tank. It is therefore, imperative that you make sure you do the following to ensure a healthier environment for your fish:

  • Always check your water conditions first, i.e. pH and temperature
  • Quarantine ANY affected fish in your quarantine tank
  • Refresh 30 – 50% of your tank water
  • Syphon the gravel at the bottom of the tank
  • Treat any primary sicknesses in the tank
  • Treat with aquarium salt
  • Use a fungal agent to erase the fungal infection (please consult our in-store assistants as to what is most effective)
  • Remove any decomposing material from your tank

Slime Disease (Parasitic)

Slime disease is a parasitic infection in fish. It can be due to unhealthy water conditions, i.e. temperature changes or unclean water, over-population in your tank and under-nourishment. It is also a big sign of vitamin inefficiency or low-quality food. It presents in noticeable blue or white-grey mucous found on and around the gills. Your fish have difficulty in breathing and show signs of rapid gill movement. If not treated timeously, the mucous build-up around the gills can lead to suffocation.

Treatment and Prevention

  • Check your water conditions, i.e. pH and temperature
  • Do not overcrowd your tank
  • Feed high quality food to your fish
  • Refresh 30 – 50% of the tank water
  • Add aquamarine salt
  • Remove carbon from the filter during treatment
  • Treat with Furan 2 or Melafix (ask our in-store assistants for advice)
  • Ensure you finish the course of treatment
  • Improve your filtration

Hole in the Head

There is no clarification as to why Hole in the Head occurs. It may, however, be a clear indication of bad quality food, vitamin deficiency or bad water conditions. Hole in the Head, presents as small lesions or “pits” in the head of the fish.

Treatmen

  • Check your water conditions, i.e. pH and temperature
  • Refresh 30 – 50% of the tank water
  • IMPROVE your fish’s diet with high quality, vitamin enriched food
  • Ask our in-store assistants for a vitamin supplement
  • Treat with Aqua-Plus or Stress coat
  • If you do not see any improvement, PLEASE ask your veterinarian for advice

Ulcers

Ulcers in fish present as sore-like inflammation of the fish’s external tissues. They may be due to an injury caused in the tank, i.e. bumping into an ornament or maybe even being bullied. It may also be caused by a bacterial infection or bad water conditions. It is common in cold water fish like gold fish. It is important to determine if it is affecting just one of fish, or more than one. If it is affecting more than one, it is an indication that there is a problem in the tank environment.

Treatment

  • Quarantine any affected fish in a separate tank
  • Check water conditions, i.e. temperature and pH
  • Refresh about 30 – 50% of the tank water
  • Remove the carbon from the filter
  • Treat with Melafix and follow instructions on the label
  • Treat with aquarium salt (this is not suitable for scale-less fish)
  • If you see no improvement, PLEASE consult your veterinarian

**N.B. When using a treatment for ANY fish disease, PLEASE follow instructions on the label and finish the course, so as to ensure good health and a reduced occurrence of the given disease.

General Tips

It is very important for the health of your fish to check their behaviour daily. The following, are guidelines for a healthy tank and for the fish themselves:

  • Always ensure that the water in the tank is clean
  • Check the pH levels
  • Check the water temperature
  • Clean your fish tank regularly
  • Have a good filtration system
  • Make sure that there are no sharp objects AT ALL in the tank
  • Make sure that your fish are species compatible and that there is NO over-crowding
  • Always make sure your hands are clean and soap-free when putting them into the tank
  • Have a separate tank for quarantine purposes
  • Make sure you have a separate net for your quarantine tank, and use separate nets to avoid cross contamination of diseases
  • Remember to remove filter carbon before any treatment
  • Check ALL expiry dates on the fish food and that the food is species appropriate, of high quality and nutritious for the fish
  • It is important to quarantine new fish for +/- 2 weeks before introducing them to your tank
  • Any underlying disease will present within this period and enable you to treat it properly before introducing your new fish to your tank

If you are observant of all of the above, you will be able to maintain a healthy environment for the fish and therefore, have little trouble with their health.

N.B. When treating fish with a disease, ALWAYS make sure that you do not give them more than one treatment at a time and that you consulted our in-store assistants for advice on the best treatment available.

Adding salt to your tanks’ water

Please note that tank salt IS NOT TABLE SALT. Tank salt has no anti-caking material and is not iodised. In fact it is 100% salt or sodium chloride. Always ensure you read instructions and doses carefully before adding the salt to the water. Obviously the amount of salt added should be tank-size related.

TANK SALT MUST NEVER BE USED if the following are in your tank:

  • Scale-less catfish
  • Snails
  • Corydoras
  • Loaches

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